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Please check my website page, it provides this information. www.hamrx8.com/Home_Anodising.html

Spreadsheet is on my website, link is at the bottom of this page. www.hamrx8.com/Home_Anodising.html

@@hamrx8 thanks

In order to re-colour an anodised part the entire process must be performed from start to finish, that is starting from bare aluminium. It is possible to strip a previously anodised part by soaking it in a strong caustic solution however this is a very toxic process and I would only suggest doing it if you have all the required safety precautions in place. Also dimensionally the part will be effected as you are in fact removing a layer of what was the parts previously anodised surface. In short I wouldn't recommend it. However instead if you do want to restore the part to a nice black finish I would suggest black powder coating.

Thanks :)

Yes it might look that way and yes the process does take time to setup and do. However it is extremely rewarding and satisfying. And that is what life is about, doing things that make you happy.

I would agree many anodising videos on RUclips are very ordinary and lacking detail. I hope you find my video useful and a little more enlightening as many have already commented that it is. There is a little more information and a download on my website: www.hamrx8.com/Home_Anodising.html

Regardless of the volume/size of the container the voltage is constant and the current is set based on the part surface aria being anodised. You need to use a current controlled power supply so you set the current to the value required.

I have in the past made and sold many of these to various people in many countries. I get only an occasional request these days but I can still make them on request. www.hamrx8.com/PREDATOR-XR-Effector-V2.html you can contact me via FB Messenger: Graham Ham

@@hamrx8 amazing. I sent you a message request.

@@hamrx8 amazing. I sent you a message request

I still make my effector on request. You can message me via FB Messenger at: graham.ham

Type I anodize refers to chromic acid anodizing. Type II is normal “clear” sulfuric acid anodizing. Type III is “hardcoat” using sulfuric acid or mixed chemistry electrolytes. All Linetec anodize finishes are produced as a Class I coating, with the exception of ANO-204 Clear, which is a Class II coating. linetec.com/2013/10/01/class-i-and-class-ii-anodize/

@@hamrx8 Thanks' for the info. I'm looking for a black really durable finish. It's just tough to find a company that will deal with small jobs. They all want to make the big bucks! lol

@@homegrownpyrotechnics70-30 Yes understand. The type II I do is just standard so more protective and decorative that hard and durable. I have never had the need for Type III.

@@hamrx8 Is a type 2 possible DIY at home? Is it the time that the parts are in the acid bath like a longer length of time? To form a thicker layer. I’m sure I’ll read up on it at a later date. But thanks for the info! 👍

@@homegrownpyrotechnics70-30 Type II is what I do and yes the longer you let the part sit in the tank during the process the thicker the anodising surface layer will be. For instance if I am not colouring the part I anodize for about an hour but to get a thicker surface for the dye to soak into I give it about 1.5-2 Hours. Type II is not technically what they call "hardcoat" anodizing but it is pretty hard and resistant to abrasion.

Yes I would say that would be quite ok doing one part at a time. Remember that the acid will become warm and the ideal is to not let it get beyond around 22 Deg Celsius. You could place the beaker into a tub of cold water to dissipate the heat if needed.

@@hamrx8 great idea-thanks!

I regret I am unable to help you with that as it depends on the servo motor specifications and your Y-Y-Z axis drive system type and its specific specification. It would be best to ask the people you purchased the machine from. Sorry I cant help you with this.

@@hamrx8 ok thanks for your reply

I would be pleased to help out but I am in Victoria, Australia so that would only be practical if you live near me or at least in Australia.

@@hamrx8 I'm in Sydney... I can post them down. How much would it be per part to anodize?

@@martinbridgewood1610I have sent you a FB message.

Unfortunately I cant find that file as it was well over 10 years ago. However if I was doing it today these might be my settings if I were to choose to go with a single flute 4mm End Mill, back when I cut these side supports I exclusively used 2 flute end mills for aluminium but these days I only use single flute. So my settings would be: Pass Depth: 0.5mm Stepover: 75% Spindle Speed: 1800RPM Feed: 500mm/min Plunge: 90mm/min I hope this helps.

@ Nice to hear from you and thank you so much for your reply. I have made a note of the details and will experiment and might need to dial down some of the figures to compensate for my slower 500W spindle that only does around 12,000rpm. What I was thinking to do first is make the plates out of Birch plywood and replace the 3D plates with Ply and then attemp milling aluminium kind of RepRap method. Btw, what is the tool you were using lazer to zero out the axis? Thanks again!

@@MP-mu1kwSounds like a good plan. I used a Laser Edge Finder. lasercenteredgefinder.com/

Sorry but no I cant help you with that one.

That's interesting to know, I tried aluminium some years ago but had no luck with markSolid. Never tried it again, only do anodised aluminium these days.

Anodising only applies to Aluminium, that's the only metal this process can be performed on.

Your Welcome 🙂

You make a good point, I have no specific reason for using bicarbonate of soda just that's what I started using way back as I had it in the pantry and continue to use it, seems to work fine for the little amount of anodising I do these days. But I take note of your suggestion and would agree Sodium Carbonate has a better chemical combination for the purpose.

Its a hobby, I enjoy doing it myself and learning new skills. Whats wrong with that. Plus for me the results are more than adequate.

Sorry I only just saw your comment. Its the part that carries the hotend on a Delta 3D Printer.

Sadly my wife passed away 20 years ago and it was some years later after I retired that I started anodising. Fortunately I am very tidy to clean up after the job is done. Its only the colouring and sealing that is done in the kitchen, the main process is all done in the garage.

@@grahamham3398 Hello Gram Im sorry for your loss , I can see everything is nice and clean, I have a question about anodize a vintage stereo aluminum face is possible to reproduce the original lettering marks after the anodize process ?

The usual process after anodising would be to screen print or Laser engrave the lettering. However Laser engraving is only suitable if the anodising colour is a dark colour as what the laser does is to remove the colour dye to expose the underlying aluminium. If the face plate is anodised natural with no colour then screen printing or similar would be the likely way to do it.

I have never replaced the plastic tubs ever in ten years and I dont see a need to replace them for another 10 years. They are made from Polypropylene (PP).

Polypropylene or HDPE will work. PP can withstand higher temperatures. Search online for plastic/resin chemical compatibility charts if you want to verify for your process.

Hi I had to read you message a few times to grasp what you are wanting to do. First of all yes in principal it would work but when you say it is outside, yes it would rust and likely seize up, depending on the weather in your aria, likely very quickly. You would need a rail system made from stainless steel or other non ferrous metal.

@@hamrx8 Sorry, my English is dangerous and I wrote the message with the help of chatGPT. Thanks for answering me.

Square HIWIN are naturally better than round linear rails.

@@hamrx8 ok thank u

Thanks for commenting. Yes it is a very worth while upgrade.

That can happen where there might have been something on the surface that did not allow the full depth of anodising required for the dye to soak in fully. You can have what looks like an anodised surface but for dye to get properly into the anodised pores they have to be significantly deep enough. Then sometimes it just happens I cant explain, I am not a professional anodised and my setup is just for home and hobby use. So not always perfect.

Thank you. Any possibility this happened because of voltage? Is 12volt a must to give in anodizing bath irrespective of sample size? Any professional anodizer contact details to some advice please.

@@miyanimthy My understanding is that anodising density is related to current and not so much voltage. I originally researched all this on the internet well over 10 years ago when I first started. There are many other people doing it at home and have posted their experience and methods on RUclips. I have watched some and there are good and not so good. Sorry I dont have any links or professional anodised contacts I can provide. The setup I have now performs really well and suits my needs exactly so I have never felt the need to become professional. I don't sell my services its just for my hobby.

@@hamrx8 Thank you so much. I am trying with different methods and still not able to get the required color after dipped in the dye. Anodized layer is there; but dye is not adhering to it. Any electrical connection required in the dying tank? In the anodizing tank I have used Aluminium on both side and working piece at the center. Your exper advise is requested to get proper dyeing after anodization? Thanks again.

@@miyanimthy My first question is, are you using a dye that is made specifically for anodising. For the dye to soak into the anodised surface you need to have achieved a thick enough layer. My spreadsheet shows both anodising times Have you used my spreadsheet downloadable from my website: www.hamrx8.com/Home_Anodising.html Oh and no you don't need any electrical connection to dye.

Thanks for your comment. I only created the spreadsheet with type 2 anodising in mind as that's only what I am setup to do.

@@hamrx8 thanks. I just happen to find somewhere hidden in Google a perfect guide to type 3.

This is how your comment translates into English: Your measurements with the digital caliper are total nonsense My comment: Really, I guess you do not comprehend my method.

Via my website. www.hamrx8.com/Contact_Me.php

The basic setup and process is the same for Hard Coat Anodising. However there are additional requirements such as cooling the Sulfuric acid bath to nearly freezing and voltages upwards of 100 volts at an applied current density of 24-36 amps per square foot. Basically I would say that these requirements take the process of home anodising to a new level. Yes it is doable but you would need a far more advanced bath cooling system than I have.